Stage 14 - The Ridgeway - Letcombe Regis to Goring-on-Thames - May 30th 2025
- John Tippetts
- May 10
- 6 min read
Updated: Nov 6
Official Stage Statistics
Route distance – 14.25 miles
Total ascent – 553 feet
Total descent – 1169 feet
Highest point – 750 feet
Logistics
Drive from home to Portway Wantage car park - OX12 9BU - £7 for day - Pay by Phone – location 810582
Walk to Market Place & get taxi to Manor Road intersection with The Ridgeway
Walk to Goring
Walk to Goring & Streatley Station & catch train to Didcot Parkway
Catch X36 bus to Wantage & pick up car
Drive to Whalebridge Car Park in Swindon
Stay overnight at Premier Inn Swindon Town Centre
My Walk
After all the historical sites I’d passed on the first 3 stages of The Ridgeway, today would be a bit of an anti-climax. On the other hand, I’d reach the halfway point of The Ridgeway and towards the end of my walk I’d be joined by Wendy, a Thames Path National Trail volunteer who does so much to promote this trail.
I’d begin today’s stage more or less where I’d finished the previous stage at Segsbury Camp. The route would continue a slow descent, roughly west to east, along a wide, easy underfoot path with views of large fields far into the distance on both sides. After passing underneath the busy A34 near West Ilsley, the descent would continue along Compton Downs, with much of the land given over to racehorse gallops. After crossing a dismantled railway, I’d climb for the first and only time today. The nature of the path would also change from being mainly wide and grass covered to being narrower, mostly exposed stone with trees and bushes on both sides giving hardly any views. Nearing the end, the path would descend into a valley with Streatley Warren on one side and Thurle Down on the other side. The stony path would give way to a tarmacked road which I’d follow into the village of Streatley. Finally, I’d cross the road bridge over the River Thames into Goring-on-Thames.
My day began from home with an early morning 80 mile drive to Wantage. The morning weekday traffic is usually lightest on a Friday morning and I had a good run. I parked in the Portway car park, walked to the Market Square and got a taxi to take me up to where the A338 intersects with The Ridgeway. I could have walked the 3 miles from Wantage but I’ve done this before and as it’s mainly uphill, it’s not much fun! So, by 9:15 I was ready to continue towards Goring. I was actually about 0.7 miles further along The Ridgeway from Segsbury Camp, which is where I’d ended the previous stage but what’s 0.7 miles amongst friends; in any case, I didn’t miss anything of note, having previously walked it in 2023.
The first 9 miles or so of this stage were going to be downhill all the way on a mainly wide, grass covered path. On a sunny day at the end of May what’s not to like about this.
The Ridgeway has a habit of intersecting with roads and tracks and it wasn’t long before I crossed the B4494. Just beyond the intersection I reached the Loyd-Lindsay Monument (AKA Wantage Monument). Robert Loyd-Lindsay was a benefactor to Wantage and the first chairman and co-founder of the British National Society for Aid to the Sick and Wounded in War (later the British Red Cross Society). For being an all round good egg, he was elevated to the title of 1st Baron of Wantage in 1893. The monument was erected by his wife after his death in 1901. As they had no children, the title ‘Baron of Wantage’ died with him.
As I got closer to the A34, the path left Oxfordshire and entered West Berkshire. I’d stay in West Berkshire for the remainder of today’s walk, until I crossed the Thames into Goring, when I’d be back in Oxfordshire. As I walked, the chimneys of Didcot ‘B’ Power Station could be clearly seen in the distance. I always thought it was a shame that the 6 cooling towers of Didcot ‘A’ Power Station were demolished – but then I don’t live in Didcot! For me the towers were an iconic sight whenever I drove down the A34. I could also see Harwell Campus in front of the power station. Harwell used to be the main research establishment of the United Kingdom Atomic Energy Authority, built on the former RAF Harwell. Today the nuclear facilities are being decommissioned and its new role is as a science and business park. Its most striking building is the Diamond Light Source which resembles a huge silver doughnut!
On reaching the A34 near West Ilsley, The Ridgeway crossed under the road by way of a concrete tunnel. Beyond the tunnel the path initially continued as a wide grassy track over downland. The area’s links to racehorse training were to be seen almost everywhere. At Compton Downs the path took a very decisive 90 degree left turn away from the village of Compton.
A little further on the path narrowed to a ‘standard width’ chalk track with trees and hedges either side blocking out most of the views. A 2 mile climb then ensued. As the path levelled off, I saw Wendy coming towards me. As mentioned, Wendy is a volunteer for the Thames Path National Trail and manages the social media accounts for this trail. However, to say just this is grossly understating the work she undertakes promoting the Thames and the Thames Path. She’s also very happy to get her hands dirty in the installation of fingerposts, clearing of paths etc! She’s always been very kind in promoting my walks along the Thames Path. She’s also a very active member of the Friends of The Ridgeway and these are just a few of things she gets involved with; she’s a bit of a human dynamo! Wendy had parked her car in the Thurle Down car park in Streatley and the idea was that she would start walking towards me and once we met, would walk with me to the end in Goring.
As we began to descend towards Streatley, on our right we passed Streatley Warren, a 77 acre SSSI. In use by the Romans, it was during the Middle Ages this land was used for farming rabbits, hence the name! To our left were the slopes of Thurle Down. This short little stretch of The Ridgeway has some really stunning views! Unfortunately, we were talking so much that I barely took any photos, so me being me, I returned in late September to get some more photos!
Just before reaching the Thurle Down car park is a fingerpost pointing to Overton Hill in one direction and Ivinghoe Beacon in the other direction. It’s a bit short of being quite halfway along The Ridgeway but I regard it as being quite iconic.
Beyond the car park the path joined Rectory Road, a narrow, metalled road which for 1½ miles gave fabulous views both left and right towards Streatley. As it got closer to Streatley we passed the entrance to Goring & Streatley Golf Club and the road became more residential.
In Streatley we crossed Goring & Streatley Bridge over the River Thames and in so doing we left West Berkshire and re-entered Oxfordshire. After taking some photos, Wendy very kindly bought me coffee and cake! We then went our separate ways, Wendy back to her car at Thurle Down car park and me to Goring & Streatley Railway Station.
I’d done this stage in February 2023, albeit in the opposite direction and so enjoyed it. I was quite excited about doing it again in May 2025 but something was missing. In winter 2023 there were very few trees and hedges with leaves alongside the path, whereas in spring 2025 I felt quite hemmed in at times by the foliage and lack of views. So, same walk but different time of year can make quite a lot of difference!
Anyway, it was still a good walk and I really enjoyed Wendy’s company. I got the train from Goring to Didcot Parkway, then the bus back to Wantage where my car was. Tomorrow I was going to walk the very short section from Goring to Mongewell, so rather than driving all the way home and then back again for a short walk, I stayed in the Swindon Town Centre Premier Inn overnight, driving back to Goring on Saturday morning. Why Swindon you ask? Well, booking a room at short notice for a Friday night can be very expensive. This Premier Inn is almost always cheaper than anywhere around, so I’d rather drive a little further and feel I’m getting better value for money!
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