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John Tippetts

Stage 8 - Marlow to Staines - August 1st


For the next stage of my walking challenge I really wanted to get as far as Staines; that would be 22 miles of river covered, though in reality it would undoubtedly mean further than that to walk – it always does! For a walk of this distance it would be no good getting an off-peak train to Marlow because I wouldn’t even get there before midday. On top of this the train drivers were working to rule and refusing to do overtime, meaning trains could be cancelled at very short notice. So, even though I didn’t want to have to drive I decided this would be the best thing to do.


The weather people had promised me a day of sunny intervals and it certainly started that way. I got up at 05:45 and by 06:15 I was on the road. I got to Bourne End station just after 08:00 and parked my car right outside the station. Why didn’t I drive to Marlow station? Answer – Marlow station doesn’t have a car park. It’s about ½ mile to the car parks in town. Psychologically, after reaching my end point today my legs would be tired, I’d be hungry and I would want to get home as quickly as possible. Bourne End station comes before Marlow, so I could get off the train here and jump straight into my car – no ½ mile walk!


So, I got the 08:14 train to Marlow and fresh as a daisy walked from the station to the river. I then headed off back in the direction of Bourne End and reached the marina there by 09:15.

Looking downstream in the direction of Bourne End
The shuttle train going backwards and forwards between Marlow & Bourne End
Looking back upstream towards Marlow
Bourne End Marina

From Bourne End, the path continues a short distance to Bourne End Railway Bridge. A footbridge was bolted onto the side of it in 1992 in order to take the future Thames Path across the river. The footbridge replaced the Spade Oak Ferry which crossed about ½ mile back upstream. The Thames Path was formally opened in 1996. I crossed the bridge and continued my walk towards Cookham Bridge. On the opposite side of the river was Riversdale, a private estate of seriously expensive looking houses. Jealous? Me? You bet!

Footbridge was bolted onto the side of the railway bridge to replace a ferry
Lovely view back upstream towards Bourne End
Houses on the Riversdale private estate
Approaching Cookham Bridge
Cookham Bridge

At Cookham Bridge the Thames Path was forced to leave the river for about a mile, initially taking to the streets of Cookham and then along a path in a small wooded area. I emerged into bright sunlight with the Cliveden Estate opposite me. The path between here and Boulter’s Lock hugs the riverbank. With all the trees in full leaf you’re under a canopy with the sun shining through it – amazing on a day like this.

Holy Trinity Church Cookham
Cookham
Spring Cottage Cliveden. Linked to the Profumo scandal in the early 1960s
I love walking down here when the sun is shining through the trees

I got to Boulter’s Lock by 10:30 and decided to take a short break at the café. After coffee and a flapjack I was ready for the off again and soon reached Maidenhead Bridge. The path crossed the bridge and then continued towards Brunel’s Maidenhead Railway Bridge AKA The Sounding Arch due to the echo you can hear when you stand underneath it. The bridge has a plaque advising that the brick arches are the widest and flattest in the world.

Boulter's Lock
Continuing towards Maidenhead
Maidenhead!
Maidenhead Bridge
Brunel's Maidenhead Railway Bridge

After walking along a private road the path continued alongside the river with views across it towards some fabulous houses in Bray.

Looking back towards Maidenhead
That's my house!

Bray Lock came up next. I couldn’t help but notice it was looking more colourful than I’d ever seen it before. Then I noticed a small sign advising that the Environment Agency was working in partnership with Squires Garden Centres. That explained it!

Colourful Bray Lock
Bray Lock & Weir

The huge bridge carrying the M4 came up next. ½ mile after this came Summerleaze Bridge AKA The Cut Footbridge. The bridge is now a footbridge linking Dorney with Bray. It was originally built as a gravel conveyor belt to take gravel from the construction of nearby Dorney Lake. Summerleaze Ltd were one of the lead partners in the construction of the lake. Rather than clog up the village of Dorney with loads of lorries carrying the excavated gravel away, it was carried across the river to the company’s plant in Bray.

The M4 in the background
Under the M4
Summerleaze Bridge
Summerleaze Bridge

Just past Summerleaze Bridge is a footpath to the left that takes you to Dorney. When it’s open to the public (free), there is also an entrance to Dorney Lake. The lake is owned by Eton College and was used for the 2012 London Olympic and Paralympic Games in 2012 when it was referred to as Eaton Dorney. The lake runs roughly parallel to the river but is hidden from view by trees. I knew the site would be closed to mere mortals until September, so I got a sneaky drone photo or two of the lake. At 2.2km in length, walking round the lake is an enjoyable little walk in its own right.

Dorney Lake. Owned by Eton College

After walking on the path in a canopy of trees for the length of Dorney Lake, the river took a 90 degree turn to the left in the direction of Eton. Soon I reached Boveney Lock which had had the ‘Squires Garden Centres’ treatment but still managed to look a little scruffy I thought! Despite my misgivings, as it was about 1:15 I stopped to eat my sandwich and have a bit of a rest.

Again, this is great with the sun shining through the trees
Canal boat chugging towards Maidenhead
Redundant Church of St Mary Magdalene, Boveney. Grade 1 listed so can't be demolished
Boveney Lock

After lunch I set off again towards Eton, just over a mile away. The Brocas is a large grass meadow on the Eton side of the river. You get a great view of Windsor Castle & St George’s Chapel from here. It’s a very popular spot for people relaxing and having picnics etc. It’s also a popular site for mooring boats.


I reached The Brocas about 2 o’clock. I’d completed 14 miles and still had plenty of stamina to continue. So, after topping up my water bottles in Eton, I crossed over the bridge to Windsor and headed off along the Thames Path in the direction of Romney Lock.

Bridge carrying the shuttle railway between Windsor & Slough
The Brocas
Eton
Footbridge linking Windsor with Eton
Romney Lock

After the lock, the path continued through Home Park Public alongside the river before being forced off at Victoria Bridge where it crossed the river. The whole of Home Park belongs to the Crown Estate but Queen Victoria gave 30 hectares of it to the people of Windsor for recreation purposes. Beyond Victoria Bridge as far as the next bridge (Albert Bridge), the land is also owned by the Crown Estate and is strictly private. The King & Camilla Parker-Bowles want us trapsing over as little of their land as possible! Prince William & Kate live in Adelaide Cottage. Princess Eugenie & her husband now live in Frogmore Cottage, after Harry & Meghan were evicted. Both of these properties lie in this private area of Home Park. Obviously, I use the term ‘Cottage’ extremely loosely!!


Anyway, back to Victoria Bridge. After crossing it to the common people’s side of the river and walking along a path with tall vegetation on both sides I emerged onto the streets of Datchet, a very attractive village. After about ¾ mile the Thames Path took a right back down to the river again and almost immediately reached Albert Bridge.


The path crossed the bridge and very soon entered a cut leading to Old Windsor Lock. The cut takes out a sizeable meander of the river and when it was dug it created Ham Island. There are 37 private houses on Ham Island today.

Windsor Castle
Victoria Bridge - not really a looker
The private part of Home Park
The river at Datchet
Datchet
Albert Bridge
Albert Bridge
Blackberries to keep me going
Old Windsor Lock

Another ¾ mile and I arrived at Runnymede by the Bells of Ouzeley pub. I’d been up since 05:45, it was 16:10 and I had 3 miles to go to reach Staines Bridge. My foot was aching a bit and I was sorely tempted to call in for a pint and stop for the day. However, that would mean I’d have to get back here to start the next stage – not the easiest.


So, I carried on and instead stopped at the National Trust tea room at the Magna Carta site where I had coffee and cake. The sky was getting rather dark now and I was certain it was going to rain but thankfully it held off.

Some house envy across the river at Wraysbury
A family of coots
Further house envy at Wraysbury
Should I or shouldn't I stop here?
I decide to carry on once I've had my cake!

I rushed to the Magna Carta Monument and took the mandatory photos before making my way back across Runnymede Pleasure Ground to the river.

The Magna Carta Monument
The Magna Carta Monument
The Queen woz 'ere!
Statue commemorating 800 years of the signing of Magna Carta
Looking downstream towards Bell Weir Lock
Lock keeper's cottage at Bell Weir Lock - more Magna Carta stuff
Lock keeper's cottage at Bell Weir Lock - more Magna Carta stuff

Very soon after Bell Weir Lock came the 2 massive road bridges carrying the M25 and A30 but collectively known as Runnymede Bridge. These bridges carry 14 lanes of traffic. After passing under the bridges I was now inside the M25 ring. Less than 1 mile further on and about 17:45 I reached Staines Bridge in the county of Surrey!

The earlier Runnymede Bridge
This is the longest walk beneath bridges of the Thames
Definitely 2 bridges
The newer Runnymede bridge - 14 traffic lanes across both
And we've made it! Staines Bridge
Looking downstream from Staines Bridge....but that's Stage 9

Phew! What a walk. Now came the small matter of getting back to my car at Bourne End station. I really don’t like Staines-upon-Thames, mainly because its railway station is nearly ¾ mile from Staines Bridge. I really hate the walk to get there. In any case, getting a train from there would result in a quite convoluted journey. I wanted to walk as few steps as possible, so crossed the bridge and went to the nearest bus stop. After 15 minutes a bus came that would take me to Slough station. This gave me the best part of an hour of sitting down to recover. However, once I got off the bus both my legs were almost seized and I hobbled into the station. The rest of the journey was quick and easy – Elizabeth Line to Maidenhead and then the Marlow Donkey train to Bourne End, where thanks to my forward planning this morning, I was able to virtually pour myself from the train straight into my car. After stopping at my local McDonalds for a wonderfully nutritious and healthy meal I think I got home about 10 o’clock.


I’d covered 22 miles of the Thames today but my FitBit said I’d walked almost 25 miles. At the end of Stage 8 I’d now walked 133 miles of the river, so 99 miles to go to reach the sea at Grain in 6 stages – easy!!








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